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Good news in the blogosphere: Mordechai Rubenstein, a.k.a. Mister Mort, whose photographic record of his daily wanderings turns up a wealth of style, is resuming his blog. It takes a perceptive eye to find the sartorial logic in outfits like this extensively patterned older gentleman's, left, but given Mordechai's pedigree (he worked at Jack Spade and later Men's Vogue) and history of being ahead of the curve, we wouldn't be surprised to see similar from many designers in the seasons to come. We hope they'll remember to give credit where credit is due.

Photo: mistermort.typepad.com
Tags: Fashion, Media

Varsity blues

As you might have noticed, we've been intrigued by varsity jackets for a while now—well, the updated ones, anyway. Our most recent favorite? This one from Junya Watanabe's fall collection. There's no denying the thinking that went into it: From the ribbed shawl collar and snap buttons to the extra-heavy felted wool, it's every ounce a varsity while still remaining distinctly a blazer. The downside, of course, is sticker shock—it retails for $1,500. Even more shocking? Despite the economy, it's sold out everywhere in New York save Bloomingdale's.

Photo: Elissa Wiehn

This Just In: Randolph Engineering aviators

When it comes to aviators, we're usually interested in two qualities—understated design and authenticity. Randolph Engineering features both: The company has been providing shades for the DOD since 1982, and they don't mess around with aesthetics, keeping the look plain and simple. (It helps, too, that they come with the polarized lenses you'd expect and that the frames themselves have some heft.) And it's not just us, either: The brand has earned other fans in the fashion community. For proof, see Michael Bastian's spring show. (No, seriously, he really loves those sunglasses.)
$99, available at randolphusa.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn
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Space invader

With nautical style, there's talking the talk, and then there's walking the walk. So we've got to hand it to TOMS shoes founder Blake Mycoskie: While we've been going on about fishermen's sweaters and boat shoes, the guy's been living on his houseboat, The Alpargata. Photographer Todd Selby (who's previously been invited into the likes of Swaim and Christina Hutson's digs) paid a visit to the boat for his photoblog. The decor? Dials, bundles of rope, and (helpfully for novices) a DVD called The Sixty Minute Sailor. Click through Selby's gallery to catch Mycoskie in his element.

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Tags: Fashion, Media

Just did it

If you've ever wanted to design your own sneaker, you're in luck: The Nike Sportswear store in Soho introduces its new Bespoke program today, allowing customers to choose up to 80 individual aspects of the Air Force 1. (In case you're wondering, it takes the old NikeID concept to the next level.) Sounds daunting, I know, but it was fascinating when I tested the process over the weekend. The company provides you with a consultant who explains the available materials, which are arrayed about the room. Think patent leathers, calf skins, and exotics, as well as the iconic elephant skin of the Jordan III (which had been previously unavailable in the ID program). Once you pick them, you can also tinker with other elements, like the laces, soles, and threads. But regardless of what you choose, you'll gain an in-depth knowledge of how a sneaker is made. To make an appointment, head down to the store and set it up in person (they're only available on Sundays and Tuesdays). The shoes take about four weeks to be made, but in the meantime, the store will give you a key chain with swatches of your materials. See mine below—just don't copy it.
Nike Sportswear Bespoke, 21 Mercer St., NYC, no phone, nike.com

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Tags: Fashion

Down and out in Paris and London and New York

Loden Dager's resort collection is just what you'd expect: reliable, unfussy sportswear with a contemporary bent, like trim blazers and washed chambray shirting (pictured), trouser-cut denim, and a rugged (if slightly unyielding) canvas trench. Resort collections in general may be meant for those luxe end-of-year vacations—and, by extension, those who can afford them—but LD's item names seem to pay homage to a hardier and more self-sacrificing crew. Select pieces—like a Steinbeck jean, the Orwell trench—call out the masculine, hardscrabble writers of the early 20th century. An unexpected addition to their company: the effete T.S. Eliot, namesake of the work-style shirt above. We're pretty sure the bard of The Waste Land wasn't much for manual labor, but apparently in Loden Dager's vision, even the most elite aren't too good to get their hands dirty.
Vachon blazer, $405, and Eliot shirting, $180, available at Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St., NYC, (212) 219-2688, and 451 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., (310) 652-1120, openingceremony.us

Photo: Elissa Wiehn

Rolex x Bamford x You

Those who consider themselves arbiters of style will find Bamford & Sons' new watch program amusing: The British clothing brand recently launched a site that allows users to customize details of the Rolex Submariner (and then, eventually, purchase it). Options include engraving, as well as color of the dial, indices, and bracelet. And while the times might not be right to spend 11 grand on a watch from a Web site, playing around, happily, is still free.
Visit bamfordwatchdepartment.com for more information

[via DNR]

Photo: Courtesy of Bamford & Sons
Tags: Fashion, Media

On Pointer

We've hailed British footwear brand Pointer's Barajas shoe as one of many recent examples of canvas' timely resurgence, but we're glad to report that they're not going to leave unrepentant leatherheads out in the cold. Pointer's Crago shoe, part of the line's spring '09 collection, is suede and nubuck without a swatch of canvas in sight, but the desert-boot-ish oxfords are, happily, far more affordable than the usual skin fare. Treat them gently, and you'll be in good shape for suede's inevitable return to the top.
Pointer Crago, $155, available this winter at Penelope's, 1913 W. Division St., Chicago, (773) 395-2351, shoppenelopes.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn
Tags: Fashion

How Entermodal's made

One of the reasons we appreciate Entermodal's designs is the amount of thought Larry Olmstead and crew put into their wallets and bags. (After all, the Portland, Oregon, leather goods company spent two years developing its products before anything hit shelves.) But the work involved hasn't always been apparent to casual consumersas much as Olmstead says they've been interestedwhich inspired him to take his show on the road. Fans of the brand will be able to watch the team work at its upcoming pop-up shop at Odin in New York, where designers will be finishing its bags, customizing wallets and card cases (think monograms and a selection of linings, like the plaid pictured here), and releasing an exclusive collection of the company's Spring '09 merch. Note: Questions are encouraged, but don't ask too many if you expect them to finish your wallet.
Pop-Up Factory, Dec. 12-14, at Odin, 199 Lafayette St., NYC, (212) 966-0026, odinnewyork.com

Photo: Courtesy of Entermodal

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Tags: Fashion

Aloha, Jil

Jil Sander enthusiasts (yes, that means you, Kanye) should prepare to move quickly: Only 55 each of the high- and low-top sneakers pictured here will be available when they go on sale in January. Made from leather and suede, the shoes are in collaboration with Aloha Rag and come in any color you like, so long as you like white.
High-top, $395, low-top, $345, available in January at Aloha Rag, 1221 Kapiolani Blvd., Ste. 115, Honolulu, (808) 589-2050, and 505 Greenwich St., NYC, (212) 925-0882, aloharag.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn
Tags: Fashion

Only in America

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For those seeking a less polemic take on national pride than found in other recent media coverage, Michael Williams at A Continuous Lean has compiled a lengthy catalog of U.S.-made apparel, footwear, and accessories brands that's well worth a read. Seeing as the U.S. economy could use a helping hand (yes, even a few short months after we encouraged you to help stimulate it), it's a great time to buy American, from labels like Steven Alan and Engineered Garments to newer discoveries like Johnson Woolen Mills and Russell Moccasin Co. If 44 is looking to trade up from those windbreakers, Citizen Williams has provided an excellent place to start looking.

Photo: Corbis
Tags: Fashion, Media

Investments of time

Apparently we're not the only ones who consider watches to be good investments. Last weekend's auction in Geneva fetched over $12 million, including around $1.1 million for this 1950 Patek Philippe with a pink-gold case—well over its initial estimate of $550,000 to $740,000. The takeaway? Either watch collectors have deeper pockets than the rest of us, or people actually are interested in stuff they can melt down and exchange for food.

Photo: antiquorum.com

The future's in nylon

For six seasons, Apolis Activism has been sourcing materials from needy (read: foreign) economies and partnering with charities across the globe to produce its workwear-inspired collections. "There are lots of consumers who want to express their values through what they buy," says creative director Raan Parton, who cofounded the line with his brothers Stenn and Shea. "That said, the ethics have to be a bonus. The clothes have to look good." Prices range from $70 for short-sleeve button-downs to $414 for a waxed-canvas jacket (pictured), and you can feel good about shelling out $300 for a cashmere crewneck, knowing it was made in collaboration with CITTA, a nonprofit that helps employ Nepalese women in the factory that produces for brands like Hermès. For Spring '09, however, the L.A.-based label has struck up a relationship that's a little less high-minded. "We're making swim trunks from the original Katin patterns," Parton says, explaining that Katin-brand trunks played a critical role in the development of the California watersports movement back in the fifties (see below)."The company actually started out making boat sails, and so their trunks used sail canvas, which is very sturdy." He adds, "But this is 2009, so, you know, we're using nylon."
For stockists, visit apolisactivism.com

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Tags: Fashion

This Just In: Mario Portolano gloves

Necessity—also the mother of retail? Blackbird's large new shipment of Mario Portolano gloves may have something to do with the store's chilly, Pacific Northwest environs, but the Italian-made goods will be welcome anywhere. The family-owned company has been making gloves since 1895, using time-honored techniques and highest-quality materials—hink butter-soft napa leather with cashmere lining. Our favorite pairs add a modern jolt with textured details, like the gridded version above. They're an investment, certainly, but as the days get shorter and the temperatures drop, you'll be very glad to have them—whether you're in Seattle or not.
$198, available at Blackbird, 5410 22nd Ave. NW, Seattle, (206) 547-2524, blackbirdballard.com

Photo: Blackbird

New Keds on the block

Pro-Keds celebrates its 60th anniversary next spring, and in honor of the milestone, the brand's offering a host of classic styles in new materials and colorways. The company was reacquired by Stride Rite in August after four years of ownership by Damon Dash; the new series is an attempt for the line to return to its roots. Case in point? The Royal Lo Leather (pictured), the basketball shoe that was first introduced in 1926 and later worn by NBA stars like Kareem Abdul-Jabbar and Nate Archibald (not the Gossip Girl dude). The shoe has a perforated full-grain leather upper, molded footbed, and rubber logo patch, not to mention style to spare. Even better? You won't have to wait for spring to buy them.
$60, available at prokeds.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn
Tags: Fashion

This Just In: Steven Alan duffel bags

Steven Alan's canvas travel bags are pretty much what you'd expect: understated, handsome, and right for the moment. But despite their appearance—and affordable price—standard-issue they're not. Alan's subtly imbued them with some unexpected flourishes, like tapering straps and exterior snap-closure pockets. Quiet refinement? Sounds good to us.
$138, available at Steven Alan, 103 Franklin St., NYC, (212) 343-0692,stevenalan.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn

Sofa, so good

Hiroshima-born Arashi Yanagawa spent four years sparring before taking up fashion, so when he launched his own line for spring 2007, he looked back to his prior career for inspiration—naming it John Lawrence Sullivan after the boxing champ. Heavyweight in inspiration, the collection—as you might expect from a Japanese suiting brand carried at Opening Ceremony—is actually sized for the featherweights among us, but those who can fit into the expertly tailored goods are destined to be converts. The Fall '08 collection veers across the board in manic colors and styling, but our pick was the comparatively restrained two-button suit, a texturized, almost upholstered-looking Raf Simons riff (available at a Raf by Raf price). Slipping on the jacket in our office, I caught the eye—and hard-earned approval—of our discerning style editor. Did I look like a sofa, I wondered? "A very stylish sofa," he said. Sold.
John Lawrence Sullivan two-button jacket, $960, and pants, $410, available at Opening Ceremony, 35 Howard St., NYC, (212) 219-2688, and 451 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., (310) 652-1120, openingceremony.us

Photo: Elissa Wiehn

This Just In: Surface 2 Air military sweaters

The Paris design collective's latest lust-worthy example of knitwear has a slightly militaristic edge: This charcoal-gray, marled wool piece comes with buttons that line the left shoulder, suggesting epaulets. (This is, of course, far more effective than, say, the French military itself.) Obviously, it wouldn't blend in at your local Army Navy surplus store, and unfortunately, neither will its cost.

$369, available at Odin, 199 Lafayette St., NYC, (212) 966-0026, odinnewyork.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn

Pitti honors Giuseppe the Plumber

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In addition to spinach ravioli, filet mignon, and a nice glass of Tuscan red, today's Pitti Uomo luncheon featured a couple of tasty bits of information: First, it was announced that Comme des Garçons designer Rei Kawakubo would be launching a new sartorial line, called Homme Deux, at the trade show in Florence this coming January. Further details are still TBD, but you'll know more as soon as we do.

Second—and very much in keeping with the times—Pitti is going blue-collar and putting on a massive, workwear-inspired gallery show dedicated to the kinds of clothes worn by people who, well, can't typically afford handmade Italian suits. On view will be a variety of work uniforms, 2,500 samples of protective gear, and 15,000 vintage photos of men and women at their daily grind. The exhibition will transform Florence's Stazione Leopolda into a faux factory outfitted with coils of rope, steel benches—even dust. At lunch, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone quipped that coveralls would be required over attendees' black-tie attire at the reception. We're pretty sure he wasn't kidding. Either way, we're also pretty sure that previous, workwear-loving honoree, Adam Kimmel, would approve.

Photo: Courtesy of Pitti Immagine Uomo
Tags: Fashion

Odin, online

When the going gets tough, the tough turn to the Web. Eddy Chai and Paul Birardi of Odin are the latest retailers to embrace e-commerce, but their devotees have been eagerly awaiting an online home since long before the market turned bearish. Though the site is only soft-launched, with a smaller selection than either of the two New York shops, the getting's still very good: Extensive collections from five featured brands (Band of Outsiders, Engineered Garments, Robert Geller, Entermodal, and Nepenthes from Japan) make up the debut offerings, as well as interviews with Geller and EG's Daiki Suzuki. More items will be added in the next few weeks, but in the meantime, a thorough perusal of the site does turn up some hidden treasures. Case in point? Martin Faizey's quick-release belt, called out by Suzuki in his 10 Essentials, lurking in the Engineered Garments section.
$175, available at odinnewyork.com

Photo: odinnewyork.com
Tags: Fashion

Obama's casual approach

From Reagan and Bush II's ranchwear to JFK's sailing shorts, casual clothing has often helped define a president's image. So what does 44's off-duty attire—typically a black windbreaker and a White Sox cap—say about him? Quite a bit, as Cathy Horyn notes in today's Thursday Styles. (Among those weighing in? Noted fashion expert Jerry Seinfeld, who wisely denies inspiring B.O.'s preference for mom jeans.) In short, the look reflects the same cautious, complex persona Obama cultivated during the campaign. Not everyone's a fan, though. "The casual thing is a bit of a disappointment," says Barneys' Tom Kalenderian. What did that other president from Illinois say about pleasing all of the people all of the time?

Photo: AP Photo/Charles Dharapak

This Just In: Comme des Garcons for H&M

Bleary eyes, hysterical keening, territorial brawls: Yeah, it's another designer release from H&M. Rei Kawakubo's ultralimited Comme des Garçons for H&M capsule collection hit Manhattan this morning, and the city's ladies (and braver gentlemen) have been stalking their prey since before 6 a.m. For moment-to-moment updates, check out the guide and live Twitter feed from the zone-flooding minds at Racked (who are far more invested than we could bear to be). Bold enough to venture into the Amazonian throngs for one of the collection's affordable, largely polka-dot-splattered separates? The goods are available—or, at least, were—at four New York H&M locations. Affordable designer-wear, covetable now more than ever—but if you're one of the many who have recently lost their health benefits, tread lightly.
Available today at 640 5th Ave., 731 Lexington Ave., 1328 Broadway, and 435 7th Ave., NYC; to see the full collection, visit hm.com

Photo: racked.com

Rogan Excels

The designer's new Santo shell might not look like business attire, but it certainly was inspired by it. The lightweight hooded jacket features a grid pattern that at once references the ubiquitous graph-paper-patterned office shirt and, of course, Excel spreadsheets. (Apparently he was influenced by artist Danielle Aubert's book 16 Months Worth of Drawing Exercises in Microsoft Excel, which is both more intriguing and colorful than its name implies. Related: The guy's got a wide range of interests.) And while it's not likely to be office-appropriate anytime soon, look for the shell to be available at the end of next January.
$550, rogannyc.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn
Tags: Fashion

Two brands offer shelter from the storm

A downturn in the economy makes for an upturn in the kind of customer service we can all live without—desperate, discomfiting, and even borderline harrassing. Good news for the shop-phobic arrives today from two of our favorite brands, Penfield and Rogues Gallery, both of which have put their Fall 2008 merch (including, for RG, the store's selection of books, SNS sweaters from Denmark, and Woolrich Woolen Mills) online. Our pick: Jack London's Call of the Wild, stylishly illustrated by Japanese artist Kyuzo Tsugami—a steal at 16 bucks and a reminder that a life among wolves should be an undertaking for the adventurer, not the shopper.
Call of the Wild by Jack London, $15.99, available at roguesgallery.com

Photo: roguesgallery.com
Tags: Fashion, Media

Rag & Bone walk alone

In the past, Marcus Wainwright and David Neville have collaborated on their line's footwear with Grenson (which earned them the admiration of Ralph Lauren, among others). That's about to change: Next season the Rag & Bone duo are lighting out on their own, introducing an initial collection comprised of three styles—trainers (pictured), loafers, and oxfords. (Turns out they're pretty good at making shoes, too.) All feature the sort of details you'd expect, like breathable leather and custom stitching, but don't retire your Chuck Taylors just yet—they won't be available until February.
$350, available next year at Rag & Bone, 104 Christopher St., NYC, (212) 727-2990, rag-bone.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn
Tags: Fashion

Pink goes white

One way to ensure a healthy business: Give customers more of what they want. At least, that's what we've gleaned from Thomas Pink's new initiative, the white shirt bar (pictured), which opened this week in Manhattan. (Those expecting a dress-code-restricted boozery, sorry to disappoint.) With 20 perennial styles to choose from (black-tie to casual oxfords) as well as six seasonal additions, the bar features a shirt menu and dedicated staff to figure out which shirt belongs on which customer. Liquor or no, it's working: According to Thomas Pink CEO Jonathan Heilbron, sales are up 20 percent, even given (or perhaps because of) the financial crisis. "In these times the white shirt is even more important," he says, "as dressing gets a bit more conservative, and, of course, for interviews."
$170-$220, 520 Madison Ave., NYC, (212) 838-1928, thomaspink.com

Photo: Courtesy of Thomas Pink
Tags: Fashion

Rappers, delight

Despite the economic downturn, The Plaza's shopping arcade seems to be doing just fine—if the recent store openings there are any indication. In addition to Seize sur Vingt's new outpost, the hotel now also hosts the first U.S. MCM shop, a small, kiosklike space that carries the brand's collection of men's bags and accessories. It marks a return for the German company: During its eighties heyday, MCM's logo-branded merch had a Vuitton-like appeal, at least among rappers, many of whom wore bootleg clothing emblazoned with the symbol (Eric B and Just-Ice come to mind). MCM lost its cachet here during the late nineties and early 2000s, but after a series of recent store launches in Asia (and a restoration of hip-hop's favor), it's poised for a comeback. At the new store, expect both understated options and monogram-heavy products, like the wallet pictured above. As for a renaissance of old-school hip-hop, we can only hope.
$195, available at 1 W. 58th St., NYC, (212) 832-2626, mcmworldwide.com

Photo: Courtesy of MCM
Tags: Fashion

Crying wolf from the privacy of home

New York's Cry Wolf is one of the city's most reliable stops for some of fashion's harder-to-find streetwear and casual labels, from Denmark's Wood Wood to the Big Apple's own Public School. It's been a hometown privilege since the shop opened, but now proprietors Abiri Ward and Nina Wolf have taken their wares to the Web, making the best of their racks available to online shoppers nationally and internationally. One standout among the offerings: Wood Wood's wool Astronought jacket in Black Watch plaid (pictured). It's nice to know you can get the East Village look without actually having to navigate the teen-choked East Village.
$287, available at crywolfny.com

Photo: Cry Wolf
Tags: Fashion

Workwear squared

A collaboration between Operations and Levi's only makes sense: The latter all but invented workwear, and the former's been cranking out a stylized, New York version of it since 2004 (that is, before the likes of Bottega Veneta caught on). Now the brands have joined forces to offer a capsule collection of outerwear and blazers that look, well, exactly as you might expect. Think sturdy, function-driven apparel done up in fabrications luxe enough for those who won't actually be joining the labor force anytime soon. (Then again, with the economy still melting down, you never know.) Our pick: the Italian wool Woodsman jacket, inspired by a Canadian hunting coat of the forties. It'll serve you well before you hit the woods—and, given its pedigree, likely after.
$298, available at Levi's stores nationwide and Operations, 60 Mercer St., (212) 334-4950, and 50 Ninth Ave., NYC, (212) 924-1971, operationsny.com

Photo: Staff
Tags: Fashion

White castle

Leave it to Yohji Yamamoto to inject the strongest of Japanese influences into the most Parisian of addresses. At the brand's new flagship on rue Cambon—otherwise known as rue "Mademoiselle Chanel"—sparseness reigns, with Japanese shoji gami paper hanging in the windows, and whitewashed exteriors (pictured above). The minimalist tack works well for the austere menswear offerings—which are displayed in the basement level (below)—but marks a departure for its architect, Sophie Hicks. Her previous work includes the maximalist Paul Smith Westbourne House shop in Notting Hill and the historic Sensation exhibition at the Royal Academy of Art—fondly remembered for introducing Damien Hirst, Chris Ofili, and a generation of like-minded blasphemers to the art world.
4 rue Cambon, Paris, (33) 1-40-20-00-71, yohjiyamamoto.co.jp

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Tags: Fashion, Travel

Scenes from a mall in Dubai

As reported in this morning's DNR, the first phase of the world's largest mall opened this week in—where else?—Dubai. Despite the global financial crisis, Emaar Malls Group, which developed the 5.6-million-square-foot shopping center, expects it to receive 30 million visitors in its first year. Here, a brief list of what's on offer to attract them, dubious or not:

- 1,200 stores, including Versace, Burberry, Roberto Cavalli, Galliano, Hermès, Givenchy, Cerruti, Missoni, Tom Ford, and Ermenegildo Zegna
- A 10-million-liter aquarium with 33,000 animals, at least 30 of which are, apparently, very aggressive
- A 76,000-square-foot indoor amusement park called SEGA Republic, subdivided into themes including the Speed Zone, Sports Zone, and Redemption Zone
- An Olympic-size skating rink, open year round
- 14,000 indoor parking spaces

Photo: thedubaimall.com

Adam Kimmel missed his calling

As anyone who's spent much time perusing fashion show notes will tell you, there's a reason most designers work with fabric and not words. But the mini essay Adam Kimmel included with his Spring '09 lookbook was a welcome exception to the usual mix of pretension and questionable grammar—so much so that we thought it worth sharing. Click here for a scan of the page.

MORE: Adam Kimmel Spring 2009

Photo: Courtesy of Adam Kimmel

Checking in to The Plaza

Nolita clothier Seize sur Vingt is set to expand uptown tomorrow, with a new, 750-square-foot outpost in the Plaza Hotel's upscale mini-mall. The sleek space will be stocked with the brand's full array of suiting and shirts, as well as the casual collection, Troglodyte Homunculus. While the aesthetic is more formal than that of its Elizabeth Street counterpart, SSV's off-beat vibe is evident in the store's design, including glossy black sliding storage cabinets (pictured), and a special one-way mirror that allows passersby to watch as customers try on clothes.

And speaking of voyeurism, the label has also introduced an innovative new element to its suitmaking process: video. Previously, James Jurney and co. would e-mail digital stills of customers at various points in the fitting process over to their tailoring shop in Italy. Now they'll be sending mini videos so tailors can get a better idea of the customer's body type and posture. "It's like having a virtual fitting," Jurney says. "Ideally you'd want the tailor to be in New York, but since that's not possible, we find this works well." A side benefit? Providing entertainment for the guys in Puglia. "They're always saying, 'Is very good! Molto bene!'"
1 W. 58th St., NYC, (212) 832-1620, 16sur20.com

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Tags: Fashion

Clothes shopping: The new extreme sport?

Given the abysmal retail figures rolling in this week, it's hard not to sympathize with the folks who make their living selling clothes. And yet those with the courage to actually go out and spend a little money—economic meltdown be damned!—are finding themselves utterly bombarded by desperate sales associates, a tactic that often ends up being self-defeating. After all, where's the fun in shopping when you practically need to put on protective gear before setting foot in a store?

Take the case of an architect friend who recently made the mistake of going to a high-end department store (out of affection for the afflicted, we've decided not to use the retailers' names) and actually buying a suit. "The sales guy was great, really helpful. Then I told him, 'I'll be back after lunch' and I go up a couple of floors," he says. "As I was waiting in line to get in the restaurant, the guy came up to me, holding 25 things over his arm that he wanted to show me." "It's like the roles are reversed," says another friend who works on Wall Street. "You used to have to fight for attention, and now they're fighting over you, making suggestions—even if they're not really welcome."

"I felt like a piece of meat being fought over by jackals," adds Justin, 26, about a recent visit to a fashionable mall outpost. "I mostly felt bad for them, and glad that I don't work in retail." Especially retail in Chicago. "I was picking up a bag for a friend of mine who was going overseas," says Yossi, 30, of a recent department store visit in the Windy City. "Immediately all these salesgirls started asking me things like "Do you need anything else? Would you like to look at any other bags? Do you have a girlfriend?... The funny thing is that I'd ridden my bike over to the store, so I was wearing my spandex, bike helmet, and cleats, and I wasnt even in the men's department—I was in the women's bag department!"

Brad, 30, had a similar encounter at a top-tier retailer in Phoenix when he popped in to pick up his normal supply of Jack Black shampoo. "Normally I could just walk in, get what I want, and roll out in ten minutes," he says. "This time I was getting barraged. They kept me in there like 30 minutes. One lady greeted me, then another [started trying to sell] me other products, like cologne, and then there was another woman behind the counter who was there to say nice things and also offer me stuff. I wanted to say, 'Hey, beat it.'"

Speaking of beating it, consider the case of Wesley, 38, who says a salesman in NYC "practically offered me sex if I bought the suit that I was trying on. He kept barging into the dressing room and touching me in borderline inappropriate ways, and saying things like 'It fits you so well in the crotch area,' and 'Just get undressed and I'll bring you more to try on.' I didn't know whether to feel flattered or violated." Maybe he should just feel lucky. After all, if you're an acquisitional type—and you must be or you wouldn't be reading this blog—you might as well enjoy the newfound power. Including, presumably, the power to say "No, thanks."

Photo: Getty Images Creative

This Just In: Sylvia Poon for Lark scarves

Vancouver's Lark carries some great knitwear (as anyone who remembers the Alexander Olch knit bow ties we found there can attest). For the encroaching cold months, it's commissioned designer Sylvia Poon to create a line of hats and scarves exclusively for the store. Hand-knitted in an alpaca-wool blend, the striped scarves are a refined accessory for winter, putting craftsmanship and attention to detail above big-ticket labels. Better still, while the company's by no means giving them away, the currently favorable Canadian-to-American dollar conversion rate is one of the rare ones that doesn't punish you for venturing abroad. That's a bargain built right in—minus, of course, the pesky shipping charges.
About $164, available at Lark, 2315 Main St., Vancouver, (604) 879-5275, lark.me

Photo: lark-blogvancouver.blogspot.com

Head case

When you're flying off your motorcycle and heading head-first for the pavement, the slick design of your helmet is probably not the first thing on your mind. But if you're wearing one of Jérome Coste's Ateliers Ruby helmets, a series of high-design beauties carried at the likes of Colette and Selfridges, you can at least rest assured that you'll be crashing in style. (Necessity, as they say, is the mother of invention: The designer was inspired to create the line in the first place after sustaining six motorcycle-related head traumas.) For his new series of artist collaborations, Coste settled on Parisian graffiti artist Honet (a.k.a. HNT), who decked out the back of the helmet with his "Surfin' Zombie" character in open-mouth scream. Statement headwear? To say the least.
$1,000, for more information visit ateliersruby.com

Photo: Courtesy of Ateliers Ruby
Tags: Cars, Fashion

This Just In: FSC Foreman Boots

Distressing the old-fashioned way has always been a trademark of Freemans Sporting Club—as Taavo Somer mentioned in his 10 Essentials, he constructed Gemma, the restaurant at the Bowery Hotel, in an FSC suit, which emerged none the worse for wear—but the process takes center stage with the line's new Foreman boots. Coming out of the box pristine and ruddy brown, the cap-toe boots can be hand-burnished to your exact specs, thanks to a kit available at the store. Not so into DIY? You're covered there, too. We hear that if they've got time, the staff will help you scuff up your new purchase.
$750, available at Freemans Sporting Club, 8 Rivington St., NYC, (212) 673-3209, freemanssportingclub.com

Photo: Elissa Wiehn

We thought he liked Field & Stream

As we learned last month, Woolrich Woolen Mills honcho Daiki Suzuki is a fan of vintage magazines. So much so, apparently, that his S/S '09 collection for the brand was inspired by old copies of Field & Stream, National Sportsman and Outdoor Life (according to the press release that just landed in our in-box). What's curious, of course, is that those magazines often featured Woolrich Woolen Mills clothing in their photos. Consider this the sort of navel-gazing we like.

Photo: Courtesy of Woolrich Woolen Mills
Tags: Fashion, Media

A watch firm contracts Beetlemania

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Whether or not you actually want to drive one, the VW Beetle is a design classic, right down to details like the speedometer. German watch firm Bavarian Chrono chose to mine the vehicle's storied history for a line of timepieces based on Bug dials past, including ones from Ferdinand Porsche's '46 dashboard (pictured), the mod '60 and '68 models, and even the car's Mexican iteration. Notably lacking? A watch for the Bug's recent redesign by retro-futurist hero J Mays. That's probably for the best—that guy's got all the idolaters he needs, anyway.
About $159 to $202, available at bavarian-chrono.technology.de

[Next Autos via Winding Road]

Photo: nextautos.com
Tags: Cars, Fashion

Spreading the Commonwealth

In launching their new label, Commonwealth Utilities, industry vets Anthony Keegan and Richard Christensen flipped the usual order of things: They came up with the brand identity first and made the clothes later. Interesting strategy, but it seems to have worked: They've envisioned the line as a Thomas Pink for Generation Facebook, which translates to dressy apparel that emphasizes fit and detailing. Think relaxed-fit wovens, tuxedo shorts with the stripe on the inside, and a sheer cashmere wrap cardigan (pictured) that drapes like a scarf when worn under a blazer. (Keegan obviously learned a thing or two designing for Armani, Donna Karan, and Versace over the past couple of decades.) No doubt they're striving to offer both ends of the spectrum—or, as Keegan puts it, "Champagne and Oreos." Happily, the clothes are more the former than the latter.
Shirts, $198-$250; knits, $210-$490; blazers and outerwear, $490-$550; available in December at Hollander and Lexer, 358 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 797-9190, hollanderandlexer.net

Photo: Courtesy of Commonwealth Utilities
Tags: Fashion

What's on your lapel?

Now that the American flag pin is going back in the drawer (until 2012, at least), there's room on your lapel for something more original. San Francisco-based floral designer Erin Rosenow offers these whimsical accoutrements—custom-made boutonnieres, reimagined using miniatures and vintage silk flowers. Consider them an easy way to turn an old sports coat into a conversation starter.
Starting at $50, available at Rosenow Floral Designs, San Francisco, (415) 424-7437, rosenowfloral.com

Photo: Staff
Tags: Fashion

This Just In: Krane outerwear at Oak

Krane founder Ken Chow interned with Marc Jacobs during his time at F.I.T., but it was his stint at Alexandre Plokhov and Robert Geller's sadly defunct Cloak that seems to have been the stronger influence on his military-tinged designs. Chow's accessories first caught our eye in January, and now, just in time for the colder months, Oak is carrying the line's outwear in this fall's go-to fabric, waxed cotton. Our pick: the bomber-style Cyril coat, whose obsessively intricate details (hand-woven waistband, detachable sheepskin collar, linings made of vintage Italian military blankets) account for a hefty price tag. If you need justification to splurge, consider that one is literally built in: Those linings ensure that, should worst come to worst, you can sleep under it, too.
$938, available at oaknyc.com

Photo: oaknyc.com

The Internet wins again

Our friends at A Continuous Lean point us toward the low-concept (yet brilliant) Tumblr blog, The Impossible Cool. What is it? Pictures of (and the occasional quote from) cool guys looking cool. And that's it. After all, who needs 1,000 words when you have this wedding photo of Mick and his stylishly revealed bride, Bianca?

Photo: theimpossiblecool.tumblr.com

What's growing in the 'LAB

Apparently, if you've seen one store d